From SJPDP to Roncesvalles, there are two main routes to choose from. The most popular route is the Napoleon Pass, which goes over the Pyrenees and is said to have the most amazing views along the way. However, this route is not accessible during the winter months from around November 1st to March 31st due to dangerous weather conditions such as snow and ice.
I started in mid-March, so I took the Valcarlos Route, which is 24 kilometers long and goes through lower terrain via the Valcarlos Valley. It has a more moderate ascent and passes through forests and small villages. I really wanted to experience the view from the top of the Pyrenees, but I also found the route through the Valcarlos Valley to be very beautiful.
Also read Camino packing list – experiences along the way, Camino thoughts, and accommodations on the Camino.
More information about the Napoleon Pass
The Napoleon Pass is considered more physically demanding due to steeper ascents and higher altitudes. The highest point is Col de Lepoeder at about 1,450 meters. I met several pilgrims along the way who had walked the Camino multiple times and therefore had tried hiking over the Napoleon Pass. They all described the route as one of the most beautiful experiences with spectacular views of the Pyrenees, but also mentioned that it had been challenging, and several had encountered wild weather at the top.
Orrison – An overnight stop on the Napoleon Pass
Orrison is located about 8 km from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port on the Napoleon Pass, on the way up the Pyrenees. This makes it an ideal first day’s destination if you want to split the otherwise long and demanding stage between Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and Roncesvalles into two more manageable stages. Orrison is a very cozy stop, and I talked to several people who either had a beautiful lunch break or chose to stay overnight at the Albergue. During peak season, it can be a good idea to reserve in advance if you wish to stay overnight, as they have limited capacity.
The Valcarlos Route
The Valcarlos Route follows a lower path and goes through the Valcarlos Valley. It is considered less demanding as it has less ascent and lower altitudes. The highest point is about 1,050 meters.
As mentioned, this was the route I walked, and we passed through several small villages and beautiful forests along the way. It is possible to stay overnight in Valcarlos if you want to split the trip to Roncesvalles into two. I considered it because the small town was really cozy, but the weather was perfect the day I walked, so I chose to continue on to Roncesvalles. In the end, there was a significant ascent, and it turned out to be a very good idea to have plenty of water with me.
